04 October 2009

Hiroshima for the Holidays

September 21-23 brought the holidays Respect for the Aged Day and the Autumnal Equinox, with a Citizen’s Day Off sandwiched in between. Thanks to Japan for such observances. National holidays mean droves packing trains, hotels, and popular tourist areas; nevertheless, Davin and I found a hostel with space for Monday and Tuesday nights, so we were off to Hiroshima.

The 3-hour bullet train ride took us through Nagoya, Kyoto, Osaka, Kobe, and Okayama, to our destination. And from the central station, we began with the heavy stuff. The A-Bomb Dome, formerly the Hiroshima Prefectural Industrial Promotion Hall, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, preserved as one of the only structures in central Hiroshima that was not completely leveled by the bomb.The U.S. Military’s target was a T-shaped bridge in downtown Hiroshima, and at 8:15 a.m. on August 6, 1945, the atomic bomb detonated just 240m south of that landmark, and 580m above the city. The T-shaped bridge (on the left in the photo above) led onto a large island in the city center once packed with office buildings, shops, homes, a hospital, schools. The northern portion of this island is now Peace Memorial Park, a mix of museums, monuments, and welcoming green space. The Peace Memorial Museum displayed before-and-after photos of the city and of people’s injuries, as well as many artifacts attesting to the incomprehensible strength and heat of the blast: burned school uniforms, charred lunchboxes, and singed hair from junior high and high school students who had been mobilized to help tear down houses to create firebreaks in various parts of the city—from nearer the epicenter: melted glass, glass shards lodged in a cement wall, a bent iron gate, and a crinkled iron and cement bridge support. Other displays included U.S. Military memos and video footage from the plane that flew alongside the Enola Gay, scientific explanations of how atomic bombs are created, charts noting the countries currently possessing or developing nuclear weapons, and denouncements to those countries from Hiroshima’s mayor. Out in the atrium, a clock displays the number of days since the Hiroshima bombing and since the last nuclear explosion on Earth.The Peace Memorial Hall offered drawings and vivid personal narratives from children who survived the bomb—many having seen siblings and friends suffer and die, or having family members missing altogether. The fountain outside centerpieces 8:15, when watches stopped.
Beneath the arch is a vault containing the official register of the dead.
In another part of the park stands the Children’s Peace Memorial, not only for the children killed by the blast, but also for those who suffered long-term effects from the radiation—many developing leukemia and passing years later.
Millions of paper cranes are delivered to this monument each year as symbols of peace. This tradition began with a Japanese girl, Sadako Sasaki, who was exposed to the bomb's radiation at two years old, then diagnosed with leukemia at age 11. She set a goal for herself of folding 1,000 cranes, folding into each one her wish to get better. Sadako met her goal, but nevertheless passed away in 1955; her idea of folding cranes for hope and peace has since spread worldwide. And at the southern border of the park, a row of arches repeats “peace” in 49 languages.
Our afternoon was far lighter—a walk to Hiroshima Castle (known as “Carp Castle”), then a streetcar to our hostel, then a walk to Mazda Zoom-Zoom Stadium, where we hoped to see the night game between the Hiroshima Carp and Yakult Swallows.
After waiting in line to find the game was sold out, we sat of the grass outside the stadium and pitied ourselves for a bit before going to get Indian food and walk around the shopping arcades and monuments at night.
The next day, a visit to the gorgeous island of Miyajima...

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